
A tiny landlocked kingdom, Swaziland lies in the spanner-like
grip of South Africa which surrounds it on three sides, with Mozambique
providing its eastern border along the Lubombo Mountains. Although
South Africa's influence predominates, Swaziland was a British protectorate
from 1906 until its full independence in 1968, and today the country
offers an intriguing mix of colonial heritage and homegrown confidence,
giving the place a friendlier, more relaxed and often safer feeling
than its larger neighbour. During the long years of apartheid, white South Africans regarded
Swaziland as a decadent playground, where sinful opportunities
(gambling, interracial sex and porn movies), forbidden by their
Calvinist rulers, were freely available. This image is fading fast,
and though Swaziland still feels a lot more commercialized than,
say, Lesotho, its outstanding scenery , along with its commitment
to wildlife conservation , makes it well worth a visit. With a
car and a bit of time, you can explore some of the less-trampled
reserves, make overnight stops in unspoilt, out-of-the-way settlements
and, if you time your visit well, take in something of Swaziland's
well-preserved cultural traditions.